reviews

Hawksmoor at Home


Written by Huw Gott, Will Beckett & Richard Turner

Hawksmoor at Home

If you love steak and old-school British classics, this bulging book from Hawksmoor hits the mark.

They know how to do steak at Hawksmoor. With three restaurants in London now (Guildhall, Spitalfields and Seven Dials), fans of a rib eye, Porterhouse or a 55 day aged D-rump have more locations to choose from for their steak fix. Incidentally, they also know how to do beef-dripping chips (£4), mussels in Stilton & bacon sauce (£8), and a mean Grapefruit Picador cocktail (Tequila, Velvet Falernum, Lime Juice, Grapefruit Sherbet, £9).

If you’re frequenting steak houses when you eat out, the chances are you’re partial to plating up a mean steak at home. Hawksmoor at Home is a wonderful way to re-create some of the obsession, love and care that goes on at Huw Gott and Will Beckett’s restaurants, in your own kitchen.

If it’s background detail you want on the quality, sourcing and history of steak cuts this book is stuffed with it. If you’re after recipes to expand your cooking repertoire, head to the meat, seafood, cheese, breakfast and puddings chapters. (As this book is thorough, there are also chapters on sides, cocktails and wine). One of the most useful tips I’ve gleaned from this book is how totally unnecessary it is to oil your steak before cooking it. Just season and then get brave with the heat. Granted, good quality steak is needed for this, and if you want to know more than you thought you could know about steak, head to the first chapter ‘The Hawksmoor Story’.

Dishes that are likely to make you drool include Steak in butter (phwoar), ultra slow-roast rump, macaroni cheese (steak-free but food porn nonetheless) and marmalade pudding. Then there’s the jelly and blancmange…. Ooooh, I need a little sit down. This book will make you hungry, and then it will make you full. What more can you ask for from a recipes book?

Reviewed by: Helenka Bednar