Cucina, Hotel Missoni

Cucina, Hotel Missoni



1 George IV Bridge

Cucina, Hotel Missoni,

The first of 30 expected to open around the world over the next decade, the flagship Missoni Hotel opened in Edinburgh in June 2009. The Missoni fashion brand declares itself "bold, passionate, fashionable", and designer Rosita Missoni’s trademark use of colour is apparent throughout the building; bold stripes, geometrics and abstract floral patterns adorn every surface from the walls and artwork to the psychedelic plates in Cucina, the restaurant.

The menu is a more relaxed affair. Head Chef Mattia Camorani’s menu presents a contemporary vision of Italian dining offering pared-down classics using fresh, seasonal Italian ingredients.

After a basket of homemade rustic Italian breads served with peppery olive oil, we tucked into our starters of green beans, potato salad and parmesan (insalata di fagioli e patate al parmigiano) and bresaola with goat’s cheese dressing (bresaola di manzo al caprino). Both dishes were plentiful; the former a light dish of waxy potatoes and crunchy green beans and the latter lean, tender beef with a sweet tangy flavour enhanced by the deeply savoury goat’s cheese dressing.

If the starters impressed, so too did the main courses. My roast cod fillet with lentils and watercress sauce (filetto di merluzzo e lenticchie) was a moist, beautifully seasoned piece of fish, the earthy lentils delicately balanced with fragrant watercress. Across the table, pan-fried fillet of beef, wild mushrooms and sautéed spinach (filleto di manzo in padella con funghi selvatitci e spinaci) might have benefitted from a little sauce, and at £25 was expensive, but the quality beef was tender and succulent and the lightly cooked accompaniments made the dish delicious in its simplicity. Also worth a mention was the side dish of roast potatoes (patate arrosto): crispy, salty, almost caramelized skins encasing piping hot soft, powdery potato.

We rounded off with a disappointing tiramisu, which appeared not to contain Marsala nor mascarpone, though a selection of gelati included a pistachio which was so authentic it tasted almost savoury, but delicious!

With a setting fit for the most prolific fashionista, the prices here can err on the side of high, but a careful perusal of the menu can reveal some very well-priced dishes on offer, particularly pastas. Our meal cost £90, which included a very good house Montepulciano for £18. 

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**Written by:** Carine Seitz