50 Frith Street

Anyone who has weaved their way through the streets of Soho, will know there is no shortage of eateries. At whatever speed you like your food – fast, slow, crowded – it’s all there. Now you can add Mooli’s into the mix. 
A Mooli is a roti (Indian bread), wrapped around a delicious and freshly prepared selection of ingredients. There are five different combinations on the menu; chicken (with crisp apple salad, mint and coriander chutney), asparagus (with cumin potatoes, yoghurt and tamarind chutney), paneer (with grated carrot and tomato chutney), beef (with coconut salsa and raita) and pork (slow cooked and served with pomegranate salsa). However it was the January special of goat that I will be making a return visit for (I am reliably told that it’s been popular enough to make a return to the menu). The roti binds torn pieces of marinated rich and spicy goat’s meat and crunchy salad. Having only tasted goat approximately twice before in my life it’s hard to explain the taste but it was deep and delectable. Reports from my vegetarian dinner companion, were that both the paneer and asparagus with potato were also very moreish. Not as spicy as the meat selection but easily amended by adding a little of the mint and coriander chutney which has quite a deceptive kick. There’s also a tomato chutney that's sweet and powerful - perfect on the baked popadums.
What is clearly understood from looking at the different flavour combinations is that the founders, Matt and Sam, have done their research. In fact they did quite a bit of research on a stall in the Sunday Upmarket in London’s East end before launching their little eatery in Soho. The pared down menu extends to the drinks list. As well as the standard fizzy pop and a good looking mojito, Mooli’s offers a mango/ginger lassi and a mint, lime and rock salt refresher that goes down very well. I found the lassi slightly heavy on the ginger side but mint, lime and rocksalt makes a fascinating and pleasing combination. Not at all like drinking minted sea water as I expected. I rounded my visit off with a pistachio kulfi, as did the table squeezed in next too me. I did hear “this is the best ice-cream I have ever tasted” at one point and I have to agree, it’s very good. Creamy and satisfyingly nutty if a little cold for this time of year. Mooli’s is a drop-in haunt with a short menu full of good food and drink to suit your mood and your budget. 
Mooli's for two including popadums, non-alocholic drinks and kulfi will easily leave you with change from £20.  
**Reviewed by:** Anne Giacomantonio